2013-07-04 15

This blog is the third version of my life online. The first version only exists in fragments via the Wayback Machine. The second version, was composed exclusively on an iPhone 5, usually right at dark while I lay on my back in my tent or in one of the shelters that dot the path of the Appalachian Trail, a 2,189-mile footpath from Georgia to Maine that I hiked on my honeymoon in 2013. It is still online in it's entirety and covers the period in the weeks leading up to starting the trail, through the 156 days we actually hiked and then a few follow-ups as I reflected on the experience. - Lefty and Hush's 2013 Appalachian Trail Journal (Note: Our hike started in Harper's Ferry, WV on May 6. We summited Mt. Katahdin in Maine on July 31st. We returned to WV and walked south towards Georgia where we climbed Spring Mountain on October 9th)

Day One

I should remember this date. Cinco de Mayo, right? Of course it's also the day Hush and I got married and the day we took our first steps on the Appalachian Trail. Busy much?

We were at home this morning (at Midnight). A train ride brought the night took us to Union Station and after an interminable wait, another train deliver us to Harpers Ferry, WV. Within minutes we'd crossed the Potomac river and we were in Maryland. We hiked along the river and the old C&O Canal before diverting to the Harpers Ferry Hostel, we are camping tonight. Since we've not laid down since yesterday morning, I predict a pretty good nights sleep. 

I'll kill he urge to wax on rhapsodically about all of this. We are happy, excited, it's Spring and we are in love. Queue the music.

Last Night in New York

Tonight the white noise machine is set to bird calls and mountain waterfalls. After a delicious dinner of Stovetop Stuffing (minus the butter) and a peanut butter covered Clif Bar I treated myself to a wipe down with my trusty bandana by the aforementioned mountain waterfall. 

Lying in the shelter with Hush, Piper and Bright Side we are all trying to figure out  a plan for Tuesday. Hush and I are in desperate need of some quality down time but the choices are few. The trail towns are small with limited lodging

Going Above Treeline

Today after a three-hour climb we went above tree line and stayed there for two and a half miles. We experienced the unforgettable sight of the barren 5,000 ft. peaks of Mount Lincoln and Mount Lafayette as we climbed the rock strewn ridge line  towards them. In gusting winds but under sunny skies we marveled at the 360 degree views of rock slides, small towns, ski resorts and amazingly, the small lake we'd hiked around yesterday. From that lake, we photographed the mountain where we now stood. In the distance we could see the ominous outline of Mount Washington, the tallest point in the Northeast. Amazingly, we could also see a few of the peaks of Southern Maine. 

Anyone who tries to get in big miles in the White Mountains is missing a lot. For one, the hiking here is so physically demanding that pushing it will break down all but the fittest. Secondly, blasting down the trail and ignoring the overlooks is something we all do some times. But if you do that here, you're missing more than just another view of trees from overhead. You're missing something special. 

I'm way too tired to write much more.

Climbing Katahdin

Everyone at the thruhiker's campsite was up well before dawn. Hush and I were the first to head up the mountain. About two miles up the Dutchmen passed us as we took a break by the last spring below tree line. Those two are practically professional adventurers so we didn't feel bad to see them disappear. 

Katahdin has the capability to break your heart. No other mountain throws so much at you. There are sections that look impossible. In one place, pieces of broken (!) rebar stick out of a boulder at rude angles, pretending to be climbing aides. You can't use hiking poles because you must use your hands (and knees, butt, back and in one case my head) to leverage your way ever upward. Thankfully you can see the summit from nearly two miles down the mountain. Fueled by adrenaline, you don't feel much pain in that long third hour of climbing. 

We made it to the northern terminus of the AT at 9:30 AM. The Dutchmen took a few pictures for us as they drank the beer they packed to the top for the occasion. We started back down the 5.2 mile knee jarring descent, wishing we had gloves for the rocks. Three and a half hours later we were done.

The Trail Out of Damascus

Welcome to the Abingdon Gap Shelter, a few miles south of the Virginia line. No one is here tonight other than Hush and I. Entries in the log book repeatedly complain about the noisy shelter mice so i suppose we do have some company. All of our food is hanging from the home made mice proof food bag hangers. So are our packs. 

We're deep enough into the woods to hear nothing but nature, bird calls, wind in the trees, the buzz of flies and the whine of stinging noseeums. There's no creek here, just a spring at the bottom of the hill, the long steep hill. This shelter, like many in TN I'm told, has no privy, just lots of mysterious trails into the surrounding woods. 

We ate our standard dinners, tuna and peanut butter on (separate) tortillas, salty snacks (gluten free pretzels, Chili Cheese Fritos) and candy (Milk Duds and Whoppers). We had some hot tea as well. 

Since its our first night out, we went over our plans for the next few days. Thankfully there aren't any long days coming up. That's good. I'm tired, footsore and just don't have as much energy as usual. After a few mild days, ill be ready to do something crazy,

The Last Mountain

We started hiking today at 6:15 AM. The last time we started that early was Maine. We managed to hike in the dark for well over an hour using our head lamps while still making decent time. The trail leading to Springer goes through several gaps but the tread way is good. We had a little extra motivation to make good time. 

After we passed the Hawk Mountain Shelter we stopped for our last creek water coffee break. We started seeing other hikers shortly after that. I told every person I saw that today was the last day of our through hike. I was a little excited. 

We had 14.5 miles knocked out by 1:15, putting us in the Springer trail head parking lot. We hung out, talking to other hikers, scoring consumable trail magic and trying to come to terms with it all. 

When my Uncle Fred and my Dad arrived we headed up Springer, where I got teary eyed only briefly. We were undefeated in our struggle to become thruhikers. We won. 

 We took a bunch of pictures. I left a rock from Katahdin up there with a note asking someone to take it back to Maine if they happened to be going that way.

Enjoyed it? Please upvote 👇